Few jewellery designers have left as indelible a mark as Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe. Known simply as Torun, her work redefined the relationship between the wearer and their adornments. In this post, we explore her pioneering contribution to design and the story behind one of her most iconic creations - the Vivianna bangle watch.
Georg Jensen’s design house was founded just north of Copenhagen in 1904. His jewellery quickly became known for organic designs including blossoms, fruits and leaves.
The company grew exponentially throughout the 20th century. By 1935, the year of Georg Jensen’s death, the house was already recognised as one of the most important silversmiths in the world.
Many important jewellery designers worked with the company throughout its rich history; some of the most notable names were Nana Ditzel, Henning Koppel, Arno Malinowsky and Regitze Overgaard, but the list goes on.
A personal favourite of mine is Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe. Often known simply as Torun, she stands as one of Sweden’s most influential designers of the 20th century.
Raised in Malmö and surrounded by a family of sculptors, architects and poets, she was immersed in a creative environment from birth and produced her first jewellery pieces as a teenager.
After completing her studies at Copenhagen University, Torun travelled to Paris in 1948, where she met important artists like Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse. Her first exhibition was also staged the same year.
Torun’s collaboration with Georg Jensen began in the 1960s. She quickly became one of the world’s first celebrated female silversmiths, with pioneering pieces that paved the way for future designers.
Her work is known for its simplicity, natural design and elegance, and the pieces are both wearable and functional. Perhaps the best-known creations are her torque-design bangles, produced in both silver and gold. Today, they are known simply as ‘Torun’ bangles.
In 1962, Torun was asked to produce a watch for the Antagonism II exhibition at Musée des Arts Décoratifs in the Louvre, Paris, alongside works by Picasso.
The design was later put into production by Georg Jensen and the Vivianna bangle watch was born. Seamlessly blurring the lines between horology and jewellery, the watch is numberless and strapless and with its minimalistic design it liberates the wearer from the conventions of timekeeping.
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Georg Jensen first produced the watch both in silver and gold, and several sizes were made.
Torun’s work with Georg Jensen spanned decades until her death in 2004. Her design legacy remains so vital that the company continues to produce an expanded range of her watches and sought-after re-issues of her classic jewellery
Here at Arthur Johnson’s in Nottingham, we are proud to offer a Georg Jensen Vivianna watch for sale in our specialist jewellery saleroom on Saturday the 23rd of May. The watch has a reference number 1326 and is crafted in 18ct yellow gold. It is the largest size available and comes with the manufacturer's pouch and international warranty card dated 2010 - you can view the listing here: Lot 7018 - A Georg Jensen 18ct yellow gold Vivianna bangle watch
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Please contact us for any enquires, and of course, your own your jewellery and watch valuations at [email protected] - we'd be delighted to hear from you.